About Us


We sell turf for all residential and commercial uses, delivered to Darwin and surrounding areas



Office Hours:

Mon - Fri       9am - 4pm


Delivery Days

Mon - Sat

Supplying turf for:

- Residental lawns

- Landscaping

- Feature lawns

- Commercial turf

- Erosion control
- Golf courses
- Sporting ovals

- Racecourses

Gavin & Lauren Howie


Head Office:

1 Arnhem Highway, Humpty Doo NT 0836



785 Anzac Parade, Middle Point, Darwin NT 0822



PO Box 2299, Humpty Doo, Darwin NT 0836



(08) 8984 9290

The Turf NT DIY Guide



Your Environment


There are many things to consider before getting your new turf.


We grow our turf in the best possible Environment and give our turf the best possible Maintenance to ensure a quality product.


Your environment can be completely different so please inspect your intended site for any issues that may arise.  Please be aware of your surrounds and feel free to ask for advice on any factors before purchasing your lawn.


Areas that may not sustain lawn are:

  • Heavily shaded areas - Please consider other options if there is more than 70% shade.

  • Acidic soil - If there are trees dropping toxic leaves or there could be other contributing factors.  Acidic soil rejects the roots from penetrating your soil.

  • Too damp - If there is inadequate drainage your lawn will drown.

  • Too steep - The rolls may be washed away or the soil may wash away from underneath. You may need to pin your turf down until it has taken root.

  • Roots - Your turf may be competing with roots (water and area) from a neighbouring tree or plant.




Preparation of site


Installation of turf requires a good quality top soil.


Make sure you remove all weeds, rocks etc and the area is level and well drained.

This will make for a healthy lawn.


Depth dug out should be between 100mm - 140mm

(50 - 100mm top soil and approx. 20 - 40mm for turf, depending on which variety you are laying).


A good quality soil should be to a depth of 100mm (the more lovely top soil the better!)



  • Spray out existing grass and weeds with Glyphosate (Roundup or equivalent product) at label rates, for optimal results it is recommended to allow 7-10 days for this to take effect as indicated by the grasses starting to yellow and lose colour.

  • Always dampen soil and let it settle anywhere between 4- 12 hours before laying turf.

  • Do not make the area muddy before laying turf as this will cause an uneven surface and your job harder.

  • Lay the turf within a couple of hours of delivery, turf will not survive if you lay it a couple of days after delivery.

  • Maintaining good soil mixture is crucial until a new root system is well-anchored through the soil below newly laid turf.




Laying the turf



Turf MUST be laid immediately (especially in our hot climate).

It is a plant that has just had its roots cut, they are now exposed to heat.

The roots will die if not laid straight away.

Organise delivery of your turf around the time you will be laying it.



  • Start laying the turf away from your stack, this will help avoid you from walking on the newly laid lawn all the time.

  • When you begin to lay turf try to start along a straight driveway or path.  Put a line of turf all the way around the edge of the area and then fill the middle in.

  • Start rolling your lawn, push edges together and stagger pieces in a brickwork pattern.

  • Lightly water the soil so that your new turf is not laid directly onto a hot dry soil surface. Doing so could dramatically set back its establishment and inhibit the development of the new roots into the underlay soil.  Ensure it is not so damp as to leave craters when you walk on it. This would cause your lawn to become wavy.

  • Lay a section of turf and slightly water and repeat this until all turf is laid.

  • Immediately after laying ensure you soak your lawn thoroughly.









  • NEVER wet turf while still rolled - This will cook it

  • Do not stretch or pull the turf.

  • Avoid gaps as this will cause weeds to grow through.

  • Do not overlap turf as this roots will dry out and exposed turf will die.

  • If you are working on a sloped area you can peg grass down to prevent any movement.

  • If you are unable to finish the job you must keep your turf cool, try to keep it in a shady spot.

  • Do not cover turf with plastic as this will make it sweat. You can lay a board or similar across top to stop sun, but leave sides open to breathe.







Please note that watering your lawn should take at least 45 minutes per session, taking into account your irrigation system and the weather. 


Week 1 – Water your lawn 3-4 times, mainly during the heat of the day e.g 8am – 12pm – 3pm

Week 2 – Water 2-3 times a day for longer periods

Week 3 – Water once a day

Week 4 – Water twice a week






  • To avoid scalping, the grass should not be allowed to grow too long before mowing!!!!!

  • Lawn may be mowed once the roots have taken hold. Check by trying to lift the rolls and ensure your turf has a tight bind to the soil. (If the rolls have not even slightly taken root within 2 weeks then something may be wrong with the soil)

  • Keep your lawn below 1 inch - never remove more than one third of the leaf.

  • For best results keep mower blades sharp.

  • Mow your lawn weekly for ease of maintenance.






Please use a preventative!


Apply the preventative asap. (Prevention is much better than trying to treat a damaged lawn)

See our Lawn Care section for information on how to Prevent, Detect, Treat and Repair your lawn from grubs.

We recommend using products containing Bifenthrin.




Fertilising (NOT for Zoysia Matrella)


  • Apply a Turf Starter just before laying so it is under your turf

  • After two weeks apply a SLOW RELEASE fertiliser (we recommend using the Scotts lawn supplies from Bunnings, preferably one with grub control)